Like a pack of hyenas

The scene is circa 1989. A large south swell has been pushing into Waikiki over the course of the weekend. By Monday, most of the hardcore wave riders have been hitting it pretty steadily and are starting to feel sated. The vibe in most lineups is mellowing out. The sun is heading towards evening, but there's still time for a late session. The stage is set.

Chris, Bob, Ron, and I decide to take the boogie boards and grab a few waves at Old Man's. It's a nice mellow left breaking near San Soucci beach. My guess is that the name is derived from it's proximity to the Outrigger Canoe Club and the Elks Club and the fact that many of their members surf there.

As we paddle out through the channel we can see the set waves rising up out of deep water like lumbering mountains. A good break for long boards and the occasional outrigger canoe. Shortboarders are at a definite disadvantage, and we boogie boarders even more so. At a break like this we become scavengers, hovering near the shoulder and hoping for a wave that swings wide. Paddling for a wave and pulling out when the surfer further up the line catches it.

But like a pack of scavengers growing hungry we protect our turf. Eventually we catch sight of an intruder. A surfer off to the side, shunned by the herd, has moved into our hunting area. A wave swings wide toward us, we paddle, but the surfer has position and we are forced to back off. But he doesn't catch it! These waves are bigger than he has surfed before and he can't commit. Sensing fear, the pack circles, waiting.

A set comes. Two waves, three, the fourth swings wide toward us. The surfer paddles and the pack makes its move. "Whooooot!" "Yeah brah! Get 'em" "Go bruddah!" "Paddle! Paddle!" He cannot resist the cheers, he paddles hard. The wave lifts his board and he gets to his feet for an oh-so-brief moment of glory. Sadly there can be but one outcome; the wave was already feathering when he started to paddle. The board rushes down the face of the wave and and pearls when the surfer fails to make a bottom turn. The three following waves sweep him away.

The intruder is driven off and the pack is free to hunt.