Monday, July 21, 2008

He`e Nalu

We've had good surf this trip. Nothing huge, but fun-sized waves almost all the time. Last week started with a surf report that called for "diminishing 2-4' surf" on the South Shore. The next day the report was for "diminishing 2-4, occ 5' surf". That was followed by "diminishing 3-5' surf" and then "diminishing 4-7' surf".

I had a really nice session at the peak of the swell out at Tonggs. The tide was high, the waves were clean, the 5 people in the line-up were very friendly, and the waves were pumping. I caught a couple of really nice set waves - big drops, but not much shoulder.

Sue, Fred, and I paddled out after the swell had dropped off a few days later. I was on the boogie board with the camera, ready to capture their best efforts. You'll notice, however, that there are no pictures on the page. When I turned the camera on, it told me I should charge it soon, and then shut off. A pity since Sue actually paddled into a nice wave and stood up - the first wave she's caught all on her own!

2 comments:

teachmd said...

Hey Sue! Sounds like you are having a great time. Have a very happy birthday on Friday. Love Marie

Cap'n Bob said...

Just my own opinion/preference, but the DROP is what it's all about! ;) That semi out-of-control feeling, then hitting the bottom and making the quick decision to shred it or try to get in the barrel.......awesome!